I had been watching the tides for the last few days to determine when the best time for fishing would be. Generally, on this side of Puget Sound, an ebb tide is best on the beaches I fish. Without going into the particulars of what part of a falling tide is best, that’s a general rule of thumb over here.

No matter which tide (ebb or flood), another consideration is to avoid the hour before or after a tide when the current is near slack – searun cutthroat trout are most active in current when the opportunities for feeding are the best. Migrating fish – specifically, the salmon species coming back from the ocean – use the flood currents to get to their natal streams.

Well, needing to go out in the morning meant I was going to get none of that this week. So I went to Narrows Park just after the low tide.  I figured I’d walk north under the Narrows bridges and work back. And given it was August, the kelp was in full bloom.

But any day fishing is better than all days working – or household chores.

After getting north of the bridge, I started my way back – working the edges of the kelp beds to see if I could entice any fish to chase a fly. Nothing.

I did manage to catch a few kelp fish – a lump of kelp that hung off the fly’s hook. You have to take what you can get.

Along the way I watched birds, harbor seals, and a few salmon fishers out in their boats – we all seemed to be having the same success.

At one point, I sat on a log and drank some water and decided this was a good time to review how my gear has been working.

Waders

For the last two summers I’ve been using Skwala Carbon waders.  They are light and comfortable – and are the easiest waders to put on that I’ve ever had. The waders have a drop-down top that allows them to be turned into essentially wading pants when the weather is warm to hot.  The fit is almost pants-like, which makes wading in them easier. The foot slides easily into the neoprene socks – given the gravel guard  is a rubberized part of the wader. About the only complaint I have is the belt is too elastic to seal out water from the legs in the event of a fall in the water (been there, done that). I switched to a Patagonia wading belt and problem solved. Highly recommended.

Wading Boots

As I wrote earlier this year, I switched over to Korkers’ Chromelite Wading Boots.   They have been terrific. I did add studs to the bottom of the boot once Korkers had them for sale. Given the long walks on some of the beaches , the weight reduction has been noticeable.  One thing I noticed the first few times out, my feet were a bit sore after fishing. I determined that the inner foot bed (similar to in running shoes) wasn’t large enough. I’ve added the Right Angle Wading Boot Inserts from Simms (a heel cup and arch support) and the foot pain as disappeared. Highly recommended for beach wading.

Hip Pack

While not absolutely necessary for the type of beach wading done around here, having some type of pack is useful for carrying extra flies and tippet and other things thought necessary – snack, water, gloves and maybe a layer (or a place to take one off and store it). In addition, I never leave the car without taking my cell phone, wallet, and keys. Anywhere close to what some call civilization means leaving nothing for someone else;- even if the likelihood is remote, I feel better having those things with me.

There are roughly three choices in terms of packs: full backpacks, sling packs, and hip packs. Other options are less common. The classic fishing vest is seldom seen anywhere – I’ve only seen someone wearing one in Montana. There are also chest packs and some just have a small shoulder bag that is dropped on the bank when it’s time to fish.

But in terms of the top three, each has positives and negatives; there are a great many online articles discussing options.

I’ve used all three over the years. For Puget Sound beach fishing, I’ve settled on the hip pack. It doesn’t carry as much (but that’s not been a problem when the car is at most one mile away). Net storage is doable but not as convenient. And it does make using a stripping basket almost impossible (you’d then have three belts around your waist: waders, hip pack, and stripping basket).  So I just use lines that have a floating running line and strip in until I can roll cast the forward section to begin casting.

The advantage of the waist pack is that it feels out of the way and is cooler in warmer weather. I can carry a water bottle in a holder for easy access.  And if I need to access the pack it’s easy to loosen the strap buckle and slide it around the front.

I’ve been using the Fishpond Thunderhead Hip Pack.  It’s waterproof and sized that I can carry what I need but don’t feel I’m carrying around a lot of excess unused volume. Fishpond is a great company and I have a few pieces of their gear. Highly recommended.

Fly Line

As in any sport that’s reliant on equipment, there are endless choices – and those choices spark ongoing debate about what’s best.

In fly fishing, the most debate is about fly rods, with passionate arguments about rods, designers, and fly rod companies. There’s also a subset of arguments about how well fly rods from some companies cast standard defined weights (in grains) of fly lines. Most of us just shrug our shoulders and find lines that work with the fly rods we use.

Fly lines do not  generate the same passions – except when it comes to durability. In the main, it most often comes down to questions about what works best. (Note fly reels don’t get much discussion except for saltwater fishing for big fish – then there are spirited opinions about reels).

Choice of fly line in terms of use comes down to the considerations of the fly rod to be used and whether the fly will be presented on the surface or under water. And if the latter, how quickly the line will sink. For those of us not using stripping baskets (to hold the retrieved fly line and make subsequent casts easier), a floating running line is also an essential.

I have been experimenting with sink tip fly lines – a fly line that has a much heavier forward ten feet or so.  While what’s called an intermediate line might sink at 1-2 inches per second. A sink tip might sink at 3 to 6 inches per second.  The fly gets down to the desired depth quickly. (“Pro tip”: once the retrieve is begun on a sink tip, the sinking stops at the depth where the retrieve began. Sink tips can be used in relatively shallow water – begin retrieval soon after the fly lands on the water).

I’ve been using Scientific Anglers Sonar Titan Sink Tip (in 6wt). It’s been a fun line getting to know. It shoots well as long as it’s done correctly with only a few inches past the sink tip outside the fly rod tip. (“Pro tip”: use a roll cast to bring the tip closer to the surface to avoid trying to rip it up from depth ; this works for sinking lines too).  Highly recommended for learning to cast and fish with sink tips.

Fly Rod

I have a number of fly rods; with more than one in some weights. They cast differently and I like to use them in different situations. I suppose it could be considered like golf clubs.

In any case, with a wide open sloped beach, having the fly hit beach rocks on the back cast can be a problem.  A longer rod is helpful as it keeps a longer length of line in the air and above the beach.

I used my Sage R8 Core fly in a 9 foot, 6 inch 6WT. I continue to be amazed by the wide range of fly lines the rod casts so well. There are much more inexpensive fly rods – but this one was worth every cent.

Fly Reel

Finally, I typically use Galvan Torque fly reels. Galvan is a small family business in California that has been making fly reels for 30 years. Their reels are simple and elegant and have proven themselves from small trout streams to salt flats.  Highly recommended.